Amphitheater
The Roman Amphitheater (Arena) in Verona, one of the largest of its kind,
was built in the reign of Diocletian (about A.D. 290). Of the outer wall
only four arches on the north side have survived. With its 44 rows of
seating it can accommodate some 22,000 spectators; from the top rows there
are fine views. The overall length of the structure was 152m/176yd, its
height 32m/16ft. In July and August a famous opera festival is held in the
Arena.
Verona is part of the summer festival circuit which also includes Bayreuth
and its Wagner operas and Salzburg. The Verona performances usually run
from mid-July to mid-August.
Loggia
del Consiglio (photo - right)
On the north side of the Piazza dei Signori stands the Loggia del
Consiglio, one of the finest Early Renaissance buildings in Italy (by Fra
Giocondo, 1486-93), crowned by statues of famous citizens of Verona in
antiquity.
Piazza dei Signori
The short street to the left of the Torre del Comune in Verona runs east
into the Piazza dei Signori (a name recalling the rule of the Scaligers),
surrounded by palaces. In the center is a monument to Dante (1865). Recent
excavations have uncovered Roman mosaics and other remains.
San
Fermo Maggiore (photo - left)
From the Piazza delle Erbe Via Cappello, with the so-called Casa di
Giuletta (Gothic, 13th century - Juliet's House with her balcony), and its
continuation Via Leoni (on left, the Roman Porta del Leoni) runs southeast
to the church of San Fermo Maggiore, with a Romanesque lower church
(11th-12th century; 14th century wooden crucifix) and a Gothic upper
church (13th-14th century), its facade beautifully decorated with marble.
It contains a number of notable monuments and pictures by Pisanello and
others. Immediately beyond the church is the Ponte delle Navi.
San Giorgio in Braida
West of Santo Stefano is the 16th century church of San Giorgio in Braida
which has a beautiful dome by Sammichele. The altarpieces are by masters
of the Veronese and Brescian schools. On the high altar is "The Martyrdom
of St George" by Veronese. In a side chapel is a notable Madonna by
Girolamo dai Libri.
San
Zeno Maggiore
To the north of San Bernardino is the large Basilica of San Zeno Maggiore
(11th-12th century), perhaps the finest Romanesque building in northern
Italy, with a beautiful main front flanked by a slender Romanesque
campanile (1045-1178) and the battlemented defensive tower (14th century)
of a former Benedictine abbey. The bronze doors have Romanesque reliefs
with Biblical and other scenes. The interior boasts an unusual timber roof
(14th century) and beautiful Romanesque capitals, and in the aisles are
frescoes of the 13th-15th centuries. In the choir can be seen a marble
figure, ascribed to the 14th century, of St Zeno, bishop of Verona (d.
380), whose reliquary is in the crypt. On the high altar is a "Madonna
with Saints" by Mantegna (1456-59) and on the north side of the church an
elegant Romanesque cloister.
Tombs of the Scaligers
The passage between the Prefecture and the Tribunal leads to the church of
Santa Maria Antica (12th century), with a Romanesque campanile. Adjoining
it are the imposing Gothic Tombs of the Scaligers (Arche Scaligere), with
the ladder (scala) which was the heraldic emblem of the family frequently
recurring in the elaborate wrought-iron railings. Above the church door
are the sarcophagus and a copy of an equestrian statue of Cangrande della
Scala (d. 1329); to the left are seen the mural monument of Giovanni (d.
1359) and the sarcophagus of Mastino I (d. 1277). Within the railings,
under a canopy, are the sarcophagi and equestrian statues of Mastino II
(d. 1351) and Cansignorio (d. 1375).
Balcony of Juliet at Villa Capelletti (photo - left)
Verona is the setting of the story of Romeo and Juliet, made famous by
William Shakespeare. Although the earliest version of the story is set in
Siena, not Verona — the move was made in Luigi da Porto's Istoria
novellamente ritrovata di due Nobili Amanti — a balcony falsely claiming
historical connection to the fictional lovers has become a tourist
attraction for lovers; the short passageway leading to the balcony is
covered with slips of paper carrying their graffiti, and a bronze statue
of Juliet stands under the balcony, one breast polished by those touching
it for luck.
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