Cappella
Palatina
Shortly after his coronation in 1130 Roger II ordered the building of the
Cappella Palatina, the court church; it was consecrated in 1140. The
mosaics in the chancel were probably completed in 1143 and those in the
nave under Roger's successor William I (1154-66). Under Louis of Aragon c.
1350 the mosaics were renewed, and that on the west wall portraying Christ
between Peter and Paul was added. Further restorations were made in the
15th and 16th centuries. In 1800 King Ferdinand of Naples allowed a mosaic
to be destroyed to make way for a new doorway. Later additions resulted in
the palace chapel no longer standing alone but being built up to on three
sides.
In 1936 a start was made on rendering the building safe. In spite of all
the changes through the centuries, however, the interior has not lost the
overall harmony resulting from the amalgamation of the three differing
components which go to make up the building, the Latin basilica, the
Byzantine dome and mosaic decoration, and the Arabic stalactite ceiling.
Cathedral
The cathedral in Palermo, a monumental edifice, stands on the site of a
sixth century Christian basilica which was later superseded by an Arab
mosque. In Norman times the English Archbishop Walter of the Mill (Gualterius
Offamilius) decided to erect a new building which would bear witness to
the claim to power of the Archbishop of Palermo (and which, in fact,
induced King William II to build "his" cathedral in Monreale, only
10km/6mi away). Construction of this unusually long, triple-aisled church
began about 1170 or 1171, and it was finally consecrated in 1185. It was
repeatedly altered in the years that followed, in the Gothic style in the
14th and 15th centuries, but especially in the years 1781-1804, when
Ferdinando Fuga gave the interior a rather cold Classical appearance and
added a dome and a second transept.
La
Martorana
The Baroque front (1728-30) of La Martorana in Palermo blocks one's view
of this church of the Virgin Mary, endowed in 1143 by George of Antioquia,
Grand Admiral of the Kingdom of Sicily under Roger II, an orthodox
Christian of Arab birth. The liturgy still follows the rites of the Greek
Orthodox Church.
San Cataldo
Built immediately next to the Martorana the church of San Cataldo, with
its bright red dome rising above the decorative surmounting cornice, is
similar in many ways to its neighbor. It, too, was a gift from one of the
top state officials of the Norman period. When William I succeeded his
father in 1154 he appointed Maio of Bari to succeed George of Antioquia as
Grand Admiral. As he came from Italy and not Greece, like his predecessor,
Maio dedicated his church to a saint from his homeland, Bishop Cataldo of
Trani, and chose the "Latin" ground plan, a triple-aisled basilica. Its
longitudinal direction is emphasized by three Arabic domes above the
elevated central nave. Its Arabo-Norman character is also demonstrated by
the cubic exterior with three ogee windows on each side surrounded by
blind arcades, and the fine ledge running around the upper edge.
Interior: the same strong square-shaped masonry is seen inside as well as
out. Apart from the beautifully ornamented inlay of the floor and the
capitals on the four ancient columns, the inside is entirely devoid of
decoration. The three capitals referred to are Corinthian, one showing a
variation from the original.
San
Giovanni degli Eremiti
South of the Norman Palace in Palermo is the former monastery of San
Giovanni degli Eremiti, an idyllic place in which to relax and meditate
for a while. Even before actually entering this quiet place the visitor
will find himself drawn to it by the red Moorish domes. In fact an Arabic
mosque once stood here, and a hall with five arches to the south of the
Christian church still stands.
Previously, from the sixth century onwards, there had been a Benedictine
monastery on this spot, and the site was re-consecrated under the Normans.
In 1132 Roger II built the square church surmounted by five domes which we
see today. It originally served as a mourning chapel for the court
dignitaries.
The interior is severe and lacking in decoration, and geometric shapes
such as circles and the hemispherical domes add height to the simple
rectangular church.
Santa Maria di Gesù
From the former Minorite house of Santa Maria di Gesù, on the lower slopes
of Monte Grifone (832m/2,746ft) there is perhaps the finest view of
Palermo and the Conca d'Oro, particularly in the morning light.
The tomb of the founder, Bishop Beato Matteo del Gatto of Agrigento, will
be found inside the church. The original beautiful cloister in the priory
precinct has been preserved. A monk will guide visitors to the belvedere,
from where there is a fine view.
Teatro
Massimo
Returning to Via Maqueda we find ourselves in the Piazza Giuseppe Verdi,
where Via Maqueda enters Via Ruggero Settimo, with its taxi-stands and
post office. On the left side of the square Giovanni Battista Basile and
his son Ernesto built the 3,200-seat theater between 1875 and 1897. It was
officially opened on 16th May 1897 with a performance of Verdi's "Falstaff",
and thereafter became one of Sicily's major opera houses. Unfortunately
the theater has been closed since 1974, but is undergoing renovation and
should now be open again.
The statue of Lyra is by Mario Rutelli (1850-1931).
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Cappella
Palatina
Cathedral
La
Martorana
San
Giovanni degli Eremiti
Teatro
Massimo
