Royal
Pavilion
The Royal Pavilion in the center of Brighton was built between 1815 and
1823 in the Indian Mogul style, as the summer residence of the Prince of
Wales. John Nash was the architect, with Frederick Crace and Robert Jones
responsible for the interior. It remains one of the town's principal
landmarks. Visitors enter the Pavilion through the Octagon Hall, passing
via an antechamber into a long corridor with Chinese ornamentation. Note
the fine cast iron banisters in imitation of bamboo. To the right of the
corridor is the Banqueting Room with its astonishing oriental décor. This
includes a chandelier of lotus shaped lamps protruding from the jaws of
six chimerical creatures, all suspended from a silver dragon emerging from
a cluster of palm fronds. In the Music Room to the left of the corridor
more huge serpents and winged dragons adorn the domed, almost tent like
room (the gas lamps were a technical novelty at the time and evoked
considerable wonder). A similar indulgence in the exotic and the
extraordinary prevails in the other rooms of the Pavilion, the exception
being the prince's own private apartments which are in contrast plain. "Prinny's"
passion for splendor provoked a popular outcry, caricaturists ridiculing
his lavish lifestyle and eccentricities of taste. Queen Victoria
eventually sold the outrageously extravagant palace for £50,000 to the
town, which has been responsible for the building ever since.
Museum and Art Gallery
Situated in the former royal stables and riding school the museum
possesses an outstanding collection of Art Deco pieces, with some
particularly fine Art Nouveau furniture. There is also a costume gallery
with fashions from the 18th century onwards, a display of old musical
instruments, and the excellent Willet Collection of porcelain and ceramics.
Palace
Pier
No more than a few paces from the Old Steine lie the sea front and
promenade, set off in spectacular fashion by the long iron pier. The
original Chain Pier of 1823, immortalized in a painting by Constable
(1827), was wrecked by a storm in 1869, while the West Pier (1866),
although still standing, is derelict. Only the 1700ft/520m-long Palace
Pier (1891-1899) with its volute ironwork remains in use, jutting out to
sea like the upper deck of a steamer on spindly iron legs. The days when
the pier was fashionable have long since gone, replaced by a culture of
amusement arcades and snack bars.
The Lanes
The center of the old fishing village of Brighthelmstone once stood on the
site of the narrow alleyways known as The Lanes, where the charming little
17th century cottages have mostly been turned into antique shops,
boutiques and cafes. Some of the facades are still "weather boarded",
colorfully clad with painted wooden boarding as protection against wind
and weather.
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